French Terry vs Fleece for Hoodies: Which Fabric and GSM Should You Choose?
How the two most common hoodie fabrics differ, what GSM means for each, and how to choose for your brand and your customers’ climate.
Both are knitted with loops on the inside. French terry leaves the loops as they are, so it is lighter, cooler and drapes softly. Fleece brushes the loops into a soft, fluffy pile, so it is warmer and feels thicker. For most hoodies we recommend 300–350 GSM; for a heavyweight streetwear hoodie, 450 GSM fleece.
How the two fabrics are made
French terry and fleece start from the same idea: a smooth knitted face with loops on the back. The difference is one finishing step. Fleece is brushed after knitting, which pulls the loops into a soft pile that traps warm air. French terry is left unbrushed, so you can still see small loops on the inside.
Side-by-side comparison
| French terry | Fleece (brushed) | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Visible loops | Soft, fluffy pile |
| Warmth | Light to medium | Medium to high |
| Breathability | Higher | Lower |
| Drape | Softer, more relaxed | Fuller, more structured at higher GSM |
| Best for | Spring and summer drops, gym and lounge wear, warmer climates | Autumn and winter drops, heavyweight streetwear, colder climates |
What GSM to choose
GSM means grams per square metre: the weight of the fabric. A higher GSM usually feels thicker and warmer and holds its shape better.
- 300–350 GSM is our standard hoodie range. It suits most brands and works year round.
- 450 GSM is our heavyweight fleece, for the boxy, structured hoodies that streetwear brands sell at a premium.
Heavier fabric costs more per piece and adds shipping weight, which matters on duties-paid orders. Our fabric and GSM guide converts GSM to ounces if your customers think in oz.
Which one fits your market?
Buyers in the UK, Ireland and northern Europe often choose fleece for most of the year. Brands selling in warmer parts of Australia or the southern United States often add French terry for spring and summer. Many brands run both: French terry for warm-season drops and heavyweight fleece for winter.
Decoration on each fabric
Both fabrics take embroidery, 3D puff, screen print, DTF and chenille patches. Brushed fleece has a softer surface, so very fine screen-print detail can look slightly softer than on French terry. A sample shows exactly how your artwork sits on the fabric before bulk production.
Frequently asked questions
Is French terry the same as fleece?
No. Both have loops on the back, but fleece is brushed into a soft pile and French terry is not. Fleece is warmer; French terry is lighter and more breathable.
What GSM is a heavyweight hoodie?
We make heavyweight hoodies in 450 GSM fleece. Our standard hoodie weight is 300–350 GSM.
Can I get a sample in both fabrics?
Yes. Many brands sample both before choosing. A sample takes 8–10 days.
What is the minimum order for custom hoodies?
30 pieces per design, with sizes mixed.
Related answers and guides
Choosing a hoodie fabric?
Tell us your design, quantity and market. We will suggest a fabric and GSM and send a free quote.