Cut and Sew vs Blank Customisation: What Is the Difference?
Two very different ways to put your brand on clothing – and how to decide which one fits your label.
Blank customisation means buying a ready-made garment and adding your print, embroidery or label. Cut and sew means the garment itself is made for you: fabric, pattern, fit, colours and trims are all chosen to your spec, then the pieces are cut and sewn. Cut and sew takes longer to sample but gives you a product nobody else sells.
Side-by-side comparison
| Blank customisation | Cut and sew | |
|---|---|---|
| Fit and pattern | Fixed by the blank brand | Built to your measurements |
| Fabric | Limited to what the blank comes in | Your choice of fabric, weight and colour |
| Details | Print, embroidery, relabelling | Panels, pockets, zips, trims, colour blocking, custom ribbing |
| Exclusivity | Same base garment as other brands | Unique to your label |
| Speed | Fast | Needs pattern work and sampling |
| Best for | Events, merch, quick tests | Brands building a signature product |
When blank customisation makes sense
If you need merchandise for an event, a quick test of a logo or the lowest possible effort, decorating a blank is a reasonable route. The trade-off is that the fit, fabric and construction are the same as everyone else using that blank, and customers can often tell.
When cut and sew is worth it
A streetwear brand with a signature boxy fit, an activewear label with a specific waistband, or a club with a kit in its exact colours all need cut and sew. Because the pattern is yours, you control the drop shoulder, the rise, the rib height and every panel – and you can reorder the same fit season after season.
How cut and sew works at Pexton Apparel
- Spec. You send a tech pack, sketch, reference garment or photo. Free design help is available.
- Pattern and fabric. We draft the pattern to your measurements and source the fabric and trims.
- Sample. Your sample is usually ready in about 8–10 days for standard customisation.
- Bulk. After approval, bulk usually takes about 10–12 days, from 30 pieces per design with sizes mixed.
Learn more about our cut and sew manufacturing, our OEM manufacturing process and our private label programme.
In practice: our most common cut and sew products are hoodies, t-shirts and tracksuits.
Common follow-up questions
Is cut and sew much more expensive than blanks?
Per piece it is usually higher, because the garment is made for you. The price depends on fabric, construction and decoration – see our price guide for the main cost drivers.
Do I need a tech pack for cut and sew?
It helps a lot, but it is not required. A sketch or a reference garment is enough to start, and we help turn it into a production spec.
What is the minimum for cut and sew?
30 pieces per design, with sizes mixed across the run.
Can I copy the fit of a garment I already own?
Send it to us as a reference. We can use it as the starting point for your own pattern and adjust the measurements to your size chart.
Related answers and guides
Building a signature product?
Send us your sketch, tech pack or reference garment. We will reply with a free quote and a sampling plan.